Lying
some 120 kilometres to the east of Paris, the Champagne
appellation is France's most northerly vineyard. The
Champagne district has just over 30,000 hectares of
productive vineyard and this is divided into five main
areas: the Montagne de Reims; Vallée de la Marne; Côte
des Blancs; Côte de Sézanne and the Côte de Bar.
While in theory any combination of the appellation's
three main grape types - Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and
Pinot Meunier - may be planted, each of these districts
tends to favour one particular variety. Thus in the
Côte des Blancs you will find little other than Chardonnay
(over 95%) grown and this variety is also dominant in
the Côte de Sézanne (70%) although there is some Pinot
Noir and a little Meunier there.
Map of Champagne
Producers
of champagne can be divided into three main categories:
houses, co-operatives and growers. The best-known names,
which dominate sales of champagne, particularly outside
France, are all among the first group. The 250-odd houses
are responsible for nearly three-quarters of world-wide
sales and the ten biggest of these, including Moet &
Chandon, Veuve Clicquot, Lanson, Mumm, Piper-Heidsieck,
Laurent-Perrier and Pommery, account for well over half
the total volume sold, around 150 million bottles a
year.
There
are however over 5,000 different growers in the appellation
and while few own more than one hectare of land, between
them they control nearly four-fifths of the total vineyard.
They only directly account for around an eighth of sales
but play a vital role in supplying the major houses
with grapes for their brands. The third group, the co-operatives,
act both as intermediaries between the growers and the
houses and increasingly sell brands of champagne on
behalf of their grower members.
Bottle
of La grande dame, a premier champagne
L'Esprit
du Siecle (the spirit of the century)
Esprit
du Siecle is a blend of the eleven most extraordinary
vintages of the entire 20th century: 1900, 1914,
1921, 1934, 1943, 1952, 1962, 1976, 1983 and 1995.
Uniquely these eleven vintages underwent a new
in-bottle third fermentation and an additional
aging with lees. Only 323 magnums were produced,
some of which were distributed to eminent personalities
the world over, Prannoy Roy being the lucky man
in India.
The
three groups are heavily inter-related and inter-dependent
although there are a few notable houses - like Louis
Roederer - which have significant vineyard holdings
and thus buy in less than a third of their grape requirement.
There are also a small number of growers, which make
and sell most, if not all of their own wine themselves.
These two groups operate independently or at least more
independently from the general system.
Most champagne produced is a non-vintage (or multi-vintage)
blend often containing portions of all three grape varieties
in varying proportions according to the individual style
of the house in question. The blend is likely to be
made up from parcels of grapes grown all over the region.
As well as their non-vintage brut most houses produce
their own single Vintage champagne from their best years.
While most of the wine is blended, champagne can also
be produced from a single varietal. Blanc de blanc is
made exclusively from Chardonnay, Blanc de Noirs from
black grapes, and Rose can be created by adding a little
red wine to the blend. Single vineyard wines are a rarity
in Champagne although the most famous - like Krug's
Clos du Mesnil - are among the most sought-after wines
in the world. It is very unlikely that you may even
get to sample these.
Also most houses have their own prestige cuvee'. While
these may not compare with the great single vineyard
wines mentioned above, they signify the prestige associated
with consuming champagne. Examples of such are Roederer
Cristal, Dom Perignon from Moet & Chandon, La Grand
Dame by Veuve Clicquot and Sir Winston Churchill by
Pol Roger.
Champagne
is distinctively classified in terms of its relative
dryness/sweetness. The driest of all is brut,
which was fist developed for the English market.
Extra-brut would mean that the Champagne is drier.
Next is sec, which is medium-dry, and then there
is demi-sec which is slightly sweeter.
Think of the hierarchy of wine-growing geography in this fashion. At the top are regions - which are areas in France - Bordeaux, Champagne, Burgundy, Rhone Valley, Loire valley and Languedoc-Rousillion. Each region is further divided into districts. A district could further be divided into communes-which are communities that grow wine. Within each commune are Chateaux, vineyards, clos or properties.