Bar Reviews > Kolkata > Eating Out in Tangra
Reviewed by Benshaver

Just off the Metropolitan Bye Pass, lies Tangra - the gated township of the city's Chinese Diaspora, housing their fortress like residences and tanneries, complete with spike topped boundary walls, moats and even draw bridges in some instances. Their insecurity and relative affluence has led them to build such isolated & fortified structures, outnumbered and intimidated as they are by surrounding communities.

Present day realities and environmental needs have now forced the tanneries to close shop in Tangra. But another industry has taken root here, which has brought much cheer to the local populace - the mushrooming of several (maybe as many as 40 to 50) Chinese restaurants. From humble beginnings of homes converted into makeshift dining rooms consisting of basic wooden tables and benches, father & son manning the front while mother & daughter womanned the kitchen, it has now blossomed into a full service restaurant area with many fine dining options. History recollects that the fleeing Chinese Diaspora brought the Hakka style of Chinese cuisine into India and into the hearts & stomachs of the residents of Kolkata. The second coming of Chinese cuisine was when Camelia Punjabi & Ajit Kerkar introduced India to Sichuan specialties with the opening of the Golden Dragon at Taj Mahal Hotel, Mumbai and later perfected by House of Ming at Taj Mansingh, New Delhi.

Drinks reviewed: Though none of the eateries in Tangra has a liquor license, beer & a limited range of spirits are available at almost all the outlets (do I hear restaurateurs from Park Street protesting vigorously?). The BoB is between 0.6 and 0.8 and spirits are priced between Rs.40 to Rs.70 for a burra.

Quality of Service: Though some have still remained glorified mom & pop outlets, most have turned professional and the service is comparable to the best, though it does get frayed on the over crowded weekends.

Other comments: Sichuan cuisine relies heavily on red chili paste & garlic, whereas Hakka is less spicy and dry with natural flavours being allowed to surface along with the use of dark soya sauce. The restaurants in Tangra remain faithful to their Hakka origins and the diner can gorge on wonderful fried starters, wholesome clear soups, the trademark Hakka noodles and other Hakka & Cantonese delicacies. A word of advice - the Sichuan dishes are better left well alone and if you're not drinking beer then stick to bottled mineral water. Also, be wary of the prawns, which have resulted in many a "Tangra Tutties" in the City.

Net-Net: The portions are more than ample and the prices are reasonable by any standard. Who knows, maybe in time to come with the help of some Kolkata version of a Bina Ramani or a Suresh Kalmadi, Tangra could also be converted into a Hauz Khaz Village-like eating, shopping & entertainment district. So, well worth the visit!